RUNWAY TREND REPORT Spring/ summer 2009

Varied texture ruled this season’s runways where hair was silky smooth, crowned with flyaways, or creatively gelled into place. Designers with a taste for the simple (yet beautiful) got glistening, shiny, healthy locks, while our stylists satisfied edgier tastes with voluminous, cotton candy textures or super tight, slick dos.

SMOOTH OPERATOR

Seen at: Afshin Feiz, Aurelio Costarella, BCBG, Colette Dinnigan, Cushnie et Ochs, Herve Leger, Just Cavalli, Max Azria, Nanette Lepore, Trovata, Vicente Villarin, VPL

The Look: Soft, silky hair with effortless chic.

The looks were smooth, feminine and impossibly soft. At BCBG, Laurent Philippon created easy, touchable layers with Prep and Styling Lotion, while Dennis Lanni achieved a straighter variation on the theme at Herve Leger. When our stylists sought a bit more complexity, they turned to buns and braiding, creating styles that still managed to seem effortless. At VPL, Neil Moodie morphed a traditional bun into a “deflated parachute” inspired by Victoria Bartlett’s collection which highlighted airy volume with the aid of Styling Creme. Meanwhile, the buns at Afshin Feiz sprouted from the crown of the head, leaving long, straight pieces styled as faux-bangs in front. At Aurelio Costarella, Sabrina Michals opted for innovative braiding into simple ponytails and Jimmy Paul went for a more natural look at Nanette Lepore, incorporating face-framing braids into wavy Bohemian locks.

Essential Products: Prep, Styling Creme, Styling Lotion, Defrizz

HIGH TEXTURE

Seen at: Catherine Holstein, Chapurin, Diesel, Frank Tell, Guy Laroche, Koi Suwannagate, Lacoste, Moschino Cheap and Chic, Moschino, Ruffian, Wren

The Look: Waves, kinks, fluff and faux-hawks never fall flat.

Uber-full, modern looks flounced down edgy runways with flyaways, kinks and bends in tow. In NYC, Diesel, Lacoste and Ruffian all showcased over-the-top volume with a frizzy (not crimpy) look which entailed flat-ironing tiny braids, misting Surf Spray, shaking out and finishing with Hair Powder. Michelle Fiona whipped up a “pretty girl” whose wind-blown, wavy locks implied she’d just jumped off her bicycle in time to walk in Catherine Holstein’s show. Meanwhile, European artists showed more refined styles with pops of cotton candy. Laurent Philippon’s punky pompadour at Moschino was brought in tight on the sides and let loose into a rock ‘n’ roll wave with plenty of back-combing on top. To achieve the sexily static look (whether reined in with an updo or all out with loose locks), take a cue from Ramona Eschbach, who rubbed the girls’ hair with balloons just before they stepped on the runway at Koi Suwannagate.

Essential Products: Hair Powder, Surf Spray, Spray de Mode

REBEL GEL

Seen at: Akiko Ogawa, Anne Valerie Hash, Blugirl, Bruno Pieters, Chado Ralph Rucci, Cynthia Steffe, Erin Fetherston, Jeremy Laing, La Perla, Liz McClean, Meadham Kirchhoff, Naeem Khan, Ohne Titel, Réyes, Rick Owens, Stærk, Tony Cohen, Veronique Branquinho, Vivienne Westwood

The Look: A reworked classic takes high shine twists and slick looks to new heights of style.

The endless possibilities of an old hairdressing standby were on full display this season as gels were used to create a wide range of looks. Two new Bumble and bumble styling aids, Bb.Gel and Gellac, helped Bb. editorial whizzes create sleek styles and sophisticated updos with unprecedented ease. Bb.Gel, a sculpting medium for sleek, flexible hold and natural shine helped create a wet appearance at Anne Valerie Hash and Ohne Titel, where the models looked as though they had just emerged from a swimming pool. Gellac, a lacquer-hard gel with a glistening finish, was used for the more death-defying stunts of the season: Laurent Philippon benefitted from the product’s sure-hold capabilities when crafting a lustrous, streamlined updo at Chado Ralph Rucci and a complicated take on a pompadour at Akiko Ogawa. Ward for Tony Cohen made the gelled look easily wearable when he reached middle ground, letting Bb.Gel dry at the bang to create a 1920s-inspired wave while brushing out curls set with Bb.Gel for a full base.

Essential Products: Bb.Gel, Gellac

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