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HOW TO APPLY EYESHADOW

Credits: photography Justin Brimacombe makeup Karin Shoji model Sari Mercer at Liz Bell Agency hair Chris Deagle Moods salon


A question I'm constantly asked is "how do I make my eyes pop?".  Although there are several approaches, I think the best way is to consider the placement of your eyes on your face. There are generally a couple of ways your eyes are placed on your face: deep-set or round and pronounced.  There are different shape factors too-are they drooping down, do you have extra skin (asian eyes).  Where are they placed in relation to your face-close together or far apart?  Here are some pointers on how to make your eyeshadow work for you and give you those alluring eyes that you always wanted.


If your eyes are:


Deep-set: We can all look like neanderthals on the worst of days, but you have the eyes and pronounce brows that typify that look!  Hey don't be offended I'm one of these people too! Your goals here are to add some volume to the upper lid while minimizing the pronounced brow bone and arch you have.  So apply a lighter eyeshadow all along the upper lid, while using a dark shadow under the brow bone and arch.  For eyeliner, go with a thin line on upper eyelid, while using a thicker line to emphasize the lower lid, this will balance out the pronouncement of your brow bone.  Try and keep your eyebrows thin too!


Round and Pronounced: Lucky you!!  You have that doe eyed look that we all want, so your goals are pretty much to minimize the volume of your eyes (just a little), so a darker eyeshadow should be applied along the upper eyelids and drawn towards the outside.  For eyeliner, use a dark pencil along the upper lashes, and reduce the opening of your eyes by using a pencil on the inside of the eye.  Your eyebrows should be nice and pronounced (but not bushy-bushy is never a good look ladies!).


Drooping down: Do people tell you, you always look sleepy?  Maybe you have droopy eyes,  Your goal is to awaken them, and draw attention away from drooping outer edges-so a darker shadow along the upper outer area (just below the brow bone) will soften the upper part of the arch of the eyebrows. The upper eyelid and rest of the area under the brow bone, can have a lighter shade to add volume to counter act the drooping lid.  Eyeliner should applied to the lower inside corner corner of the eye, and drawn in a direction towards it, while the lower outside corner, should have eyeliner drawn upwards to the outside corner. You want your eyebrows to have an upward movement to them towards the outside (you can either pluck and draw it, or just pluck).


Asian Eyes: Your goal is to accentuate the almond shape of your eyes and draw attention to it.  This can be done by using a dark shadow on the eyelids, that will be softened towards the top or the outside.  If your upper lid folds in so no upper eyelid is visible, try using a black eyeliner in a thick line, it gives the appearance of an eyelid, and try contouring some eyeshadow in the crease to add some dimension.


Eyes Close Together:  Cursed crossed eye appearance!!!  Do people think you are a little too intense?  Maybe, it's because of your close set eyes  But fear not, it can be worked around.  Your goal is to make your eyes appear further apart, so use a light eyeshadow on the inside corner of the eye, with the eyeshadow gradually darken along the upper lid as you head out toward the outside of the eye.  On the outer corner, a darker eyeshadow underneath the brow bone, along the arch, also in a direction towards the outer corner, will help the eyes seem further apart.  Eyeliner should be drawn in a direction towards the outside of eye, with eyebrows being plucked so that they also extend towards the outside.


Eyes Far Apart: The beloved hammer head look!  Marty Feldman was a good example of this (not to mention thyroid issues, but that's another topic), Obviously your goal is to bring your eyes closer together, so apply a dark eyeshadow along the inside corner, on the eyelid itself and under the brow bone, drawn towards the nose.  Eyeshadow should gradually lighten as you head towards the outside of the eye. Eyeliner should be drawn so the it extends a little beyond the inside corner and eyebrows should be plucked and drawn so they are closer together.  


Hopefully , these little pointers will help, and make those lovely eyes of your draw the attention they deserve!

Eyes: MAC Eyeshadow in Electra ($17.00), MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack ($18.00) Lancome Le Crayon Khol in Black Ebony ($23.50), Dior's Diorshow Mascara in Black($23.00) Cheeks:Shu Uemura's Glow On Blush in Tranquil Pink ($21.00) Lipstick:Lancome Color Fever Lipstick Roses in Rose Tempest ($25.00)
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